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Service

Drainage trenching,cut to the fall

Trenching, bedding, backfill and compaction for ag lines, stormwater runs and water supply — cut straight, to the right depth, with the fall holding the whole way.

A narrow trench running the length of a back lawn with slotted ag pipe bedded in red scoria and wrapped in white geotextile.
Slotted ag pipe, bedded in scoria and wrapped in geotextile. The sock and the fabric are what stop it silting up and quietly failing in three years.

Drainage is one of the few jobs where the trench matters as much as the pipe. A line laid to a consistent fall in a properly bedded trench drains for decades. The same pipe in a trench with a flat spot in it holds water, silts up, and quietly stops working somewhere around year three.

What we do

  • Agricultural (subsoil) drains — slotted pipe in an aggregate-filled trench, wrapped in geotextile, to drain a waterlogged lawn or garden bed.
  • Stormwater trenching — trench excavation, bedding, pipe laying, backfill and compaction for surface and roof water runs.
  • Water supply trenching — runs out to a shed, a tank, a tap or an irrigation system.
  • Trenching for licensed plumbers — the excavation half of the job, so the plumber turns up to an open trench at the right depth and fall instead of spending their day on a shovel.
  • Soakwells and rubble pits — excavation for on-site absorption where discharging elsewhere is not an option.
  • Backfill and compaction — done in layers, so the ground does not sink into a channel across your lawn over the following winter.

Where the licensed plumber comes in

In Victoria, below-ground stormwater drainage work — from the above-ground pipes through to the point of discharge — is licensed drainage work under Part 4 of the Plumbing Regulations 2018, and the Victorian Building Authority requires it to be carried out by a licensed plumber. There is no owner-builder route around it.

So the split on a stormwater job is: we do the excavation, trenching, bedding, backfill and compaction, and a licensed plumber does the licensed work. If you have a plumber, we work to their setout. If you do not, we can point you at someone who does this regularly. Nobody should be offering to do the whole thing without a licence, and it is worth asking any quote you receive which side of that line it sits on.

Ag drain or stormwater?

These get confused constantly, and installing the wrong one is the most common drainage mistake we get called out to fix.

Stormwater pipe
Sealed. Carries roof and surface water away to a legal point of discharge. Keeps water out of the ground.
Ag drain
Slotted and porous. Sits in gravel wrapped in geotextile and is designed to let groundwater in, then carry it away. Drains a saturated lawn.

If your problem is a downpipe dumping into a garden bed, that is stormwater. If your problem is a lawn that stays spongy for a week after rain with no obvious source, that is groundwater sitting on clay, and it needs an ag line. The full explanation is in ag drain or stormwater?

Why Melbourne’s north waterlogs

Heavy clay subsoil, mostly. Rain soaks down through the topsoil, reaches a clay layer it cannot pass through, and stops. The water has nowhere to go but sideways and slowly, so it sits in the root zone. The lawn goes spongy underfoot, grass thins out and moss moves in, and it stays that way well after the rain has finished.

Nothing is broken — there is simply no path out. An ag line provides one.

What a properly built ag line looks like

  1. Trench cut to a consistent fall

    Fall matters more than depth. A deep trench with a low spot in the middle is a buried puddle. The line has to run downhill the whole way to its outlet.

  2. Bedded in clean angular aggregate

    Scoria or a clean crushed rock. Angular, because it locks together and keeps voids open for water to move through. Not sand, and not the crusher dust that turns to concrete.

  3. Wrapped in geotextile

    The fabric is not optional and it is the first thing skipped on a cheap job. It stops fine clay particles migrating into the aggregate. Without it, silt fills the voids, the line chokes, and in about three years you are digging it up again.

  4. Outlet sorted before the trench is dug

    An ag line has to discharge somewhere legal — a stormwater connection made by a licensed plumber, a soakwell, or a surface point that does not send water onto a neighbour. Work this out first. A drain with nowhere to go is a very tidy trench full of water.

Services get located first

Every job that breaks ground starts with a free Before You Dig Australia request. It puts the query in front of every registered utility with assets near the site and the plans usually come back in minutes. They show approximate locations, not exact ones, so anything near a marked service still gets located by hand before a bucket goes near it.

Common questions

Straight answers, from the person who does the work.

Do I need a licensed plumber as well?

For below-ground stormwater, yes. In Victoria, work on a below-ground stormwater drainage system from the above-ground pipes through to the point of discharge is licensed drainage work under Part 4 of the Plumbing Regulations 2018, and the Victorian Building Authority is clear that it has to be done by a licensed plumber. We do the excavation, trenching, bedding, backfill and compaction, and work alongside your plumber for the parts that need a licence. If you haven’t got one, we can point you at someone who does this work regularly.

What is the difference between an ag drain and stormwater?

A stormwater pipe is sealed and carries roof and surface water to a legal point of discharge. An ag drain — slotted pipe in a gravel-filled trench, wrapped in geotextile — is designed to let groundwater in, and drains a saturated lawn or garden bed. A waterlogged backyard usually needs the ag drain. Putting the wrong one in is the most common drainage mistake we get called out to fix.

How deep does the trench need to be?

It depends what is going in it and what runs over the top. An ag line under a lawn is typically shallow, but it has to sit below the root zone and hold a consistent fall. Stormwater goes deeper, and depths and gradients for below-ground drainage are set by AS/NZS 3500.3. Depth is not the number to fixate on — consistent fall is. A deep trench with a flat spot in it holds water.

Do you check for underground services first?

Always, and so should anyone else with a machine. Before You Dig Australia is a free service that returns plans for registered gas, water, electricity and telecommunications assets — you lodge a request online or call 1100. Plans usually come back within minutes, though it is worth allowing two business days. We lodge one on every job that breaks ground, and there is a guide to the process.

Why is my backyard still boggy a week after rain?

Almost always heavy clay subsoil, which most of Melbourne’s north sits on. Water passes through the topsoil, hits clay, and has nowhere to go, so it sits in the root zone and turns the lawn to porridge. That is exactly the problem an ag line solves — it gives the water a path out. The full explanation is in our guide to ag drains and stormwater.

Will you wreck my lawn getting the machine in?

A 1.8 tonne excavator on rubber tracks spreads its weight far better than a wheelbarrow does, and on a dry lawn it leaves very little. On a saturated one it will mark, which is a good reason not to book drainage work for the wettest week of the year if it can wait. Track mats go down where the ground is soft.

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